16v Fuel filter replacement

From THE Corrado Forum Knowledge Base

This article is intended for guidance only, neither myself or the Corrado forum will be held responsible for any mistakes. The fuel filter was changed on a 1.8 16v (KR) car but the (9A) 2 litre is similar. This article is intended to allow all levels of skill to be able to dive in and change the filter so if I am saying things that appear obvious to you they may not be to everyone.

Contents 1 Parts You Will Need 2 Tools Required 3 Preparation for Job 4 Gaining Access to the Fuel Filter 5 Removing the Fuel Filter 6 Fitting the New Filter 7 Test

Parts You Will Need

• KR 16v Fuel Filter: 811 133 511D £12.93
• 9A 16v Fuel Filter: 893 133 511 £12.09
• 2 x Seals 049 133 696B £3.84
• 2 x Seals N013 812 8 £0.44

I would also recommend you change the following to make your life a bit easier:

• Fuel filter bracket Bolt N010 348 4 £0.58
• Threaded plate for above 251 813 599 £0.99
• 4 x Nut that hold fuel assembly to car N011 006 27 £1.00
• 4 x washer for above N012 226 5 £0.48

If you are really anal and want to change everything that might be perished or worn then add these bits to your growing list:

• Fuel filter band clamp 535 201 679 £11.73
• Banjo Bolt N903 580 03 £2.63
• Banjo Bolt with filter 048 133 505 £6.86
• 4 x rubber pads for fuel assembly to car 191 201 274 £8.08
• 4 x speed nut for above 191 201 280A £3.28
• 4 x spacer bush for above 191 201 278A £5.92

As you can see that is quite a long list for 'just' changing a filter but I think it is worthwhile fitting all new parts as the old ones have lasted at least 10 years by now!

Tools Required

• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Approx 15-20+ cm extension bar
• Socket handle
• 19mm open ended spanner
• 22mm open ended spanner
• 26mm open ended spanner
• Philips screwdriver
• Safety specs/goggles
• Car jack and 2 x axle stands or a car lift
• Torch or other light source
• Penetrating Oil
• Torque Wrench

Preparation for Job

Get the parts you need from your friendly neighbourhood stealer, I mean VW dealer – you will need to pay them a visit to get the parts as the seals will need to be replaced and are only available from VAG. Get your tools together, hope it doesn't rain if you are doing this job outside and then sit down and have a cuppa and read this through before you start.

First of all ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the key removed from the ignition then, chock the front wheels and jack the rear of the car using a suitable jacking point. (I find the rear beam a good point but beware of the fact that it will rotate when jacked) Place the axle stands under the car at a suitable point and lower the vehicle onto the axle stands.

After all this manic activity you may want to stop for a cuppa.

Gaining Access to the Fuel Filter

If you look under the drivers side of the car (Off side, O/S) in front of the rear wheel you will see something like this (Pic: Fuel Filter Overview). You will soon realise that it is impossible to undo the bolt that holds the fuel filter clamp in place due to the rear beam of the passenger footwell; this where most people resort to expletives, a hacksaw and then a cable tie.

It appears that the VAG designers in their infinite wisdom decided that to change the fuel filter you need to drop the entire assembly Slide the plastic clip that supports the handbrake cable out of its receiver and move it and the cable out of the way. The assembly is held onto the car by means of 4 nuts (N011 006 27) they can be found here at the front of the assembly andhere at the rear of the assembly. Unbolt these from the car using an 17mm socket, the 15cm+ extension and socket handle. You will find that with some pulling the entire assembly will now come away from the car, unclipping the hose clips as you remove it. Here is a photo showing the side of the assembly now removed looking from the passenger side (Near side, N/S) to the O/S of the car; note the handbrake cable clip and its receiver. Note: The 'bolts' that the nuts attach to are welded to the bottom of the car so these should not spin. There are also the rubber bump stops and speed nuts (brackets over the rubber bump stops) these will stick to the car as the washers are bonded to the above 'bolts'

You will now have easy access to the filter assembly! Spray some penetrating oil on the bolt that clamps the fuel filter in the bracket and go and have a cuppa to celebrate.

Removing the Fuel Filter

WARNING: The fuel accumulator on a KR engine provides up to 3 bar of pressure in the system long after the engine has been switched off, when undoing the banjo bolts that screw into the filter wear suitable protective eyewear. Fuel WILL spray out when you loosen the bolts! If you have any doubt about this pm 2cc about his fuel in the eye experience

First of all remove the philips head bolt that secures the fuel filter in the clamp, then remove the clamp from the fuel pump assembly and finally slide the clamp off the filter and out of the way (See pics of re-assembly for details) After this the filter should only be attached to the car by the two fuel lines.

Get some safety goggles and don them (or in English put them on) then, undo the N/S banjo bolt by using the 19mm spanner on the bolt and a 26mm spanner on the hex section of the fuel filter for purchase. Undo the O/S banjo bolt using a 17mm spanner on the bolt and the 19mm spanner on the fuel filter for purchase. Place the old filter in a suitable container and go and get another cuppa.

Fitting the New Filter

Note: My new fuel filter came with a large brass attachment on one end, I soon discovered that this was useless on my car and removed it; it may be so that the filter can fit a wider range of models. Also note the direction of fuel flow arrows

To quote a famous automotive manual 'Refitting is the reversal of removal' – yeah right!

Using your new seals refit the banjo bolts and fuel lines to the filter, paying attention to the direction of flow arrows. The seals with the internal rubbery ring (049 133 696B) are fitted either side of the banjo bolt at the 'in' end of the filter and the other seals (Copper washers N013 8128) go at the 'out' end either side of the banjo bolt. Torque the 'in' end of the filter to 25nm or 18 lb ft and the 'out' end to 20nm or 15 lb ft.

Next you will need to refit the fuel filter clamp (535 201 679), make sure you fit the bolt (N 010 348 4) and threaded plate (251 813 599) it only needs to be done up a couple of turns, before you attempt to locate the clamp back into the fuel pump assembly. You will find if you do not fit the bolt and threaded plate prior to relocating the clamp into the fuel pump assembly you will not be able to fit the threaded plate due to the way the fuel line is routed. Next engage the lugs on the fuel filter bracket into the slots on the fuel pump assembly and then tighten the bolt to 10nm or 7 lb ft.

Note: Engaging the lugs is a bit fiddly but it will go if you make sure that the bolt and threaded plate are not tightened by more than a couple of threads.

Finally you now need to push the fuel pump assembly, with new filter attached back up onto the locating bolts on the car refitting the fuel lines in the clips as you go. Fit the washers (N 012 226 5) and nuts (N 011 006 27) using an 17mm socket, 15cm+ extension bar and socket handle, torque load these nuts to 20nm or 15 lb ft. Refit the handbrake cable clip into its receiver and stand/lay back and admire your work!

Test

After a cuppa and no doubt by now a trip to the toilet you will need to test the fuel pump to see if it leaks. First of all make sure the car is out of gear. Then begin by allowing the pump to run for around 10-15 seconds before turning the engine over, this will hopefully allow the air that is in your new filter to be shoved up to the engine end of the circuit. Start the car and cringe as it makes lots of unhappy sounds. If you need to, keep turning the car over until it fires successfully, as you will need to bleed the fuel system. When the car is running have a look at the banjo bolts on the fuel filter to ensure that there is no sign of any leaks. If there are then turn off the engine, tighten the leaking bolt by ¼ of a turn and repeat the process until no leaks occur.

All that remains is to lower the car off the axle stands put your tools away, have another cuppa and go for a drive!

--Yandards 13:41, 24 April 2006 (BST)